There is also another special article addressing the special concerns of solo female travellers – at this link.
Updated: March 2021 – by Green Olive staff
Safety and Security
Currently only Israeli citizens or legal residents are permitted to fly into the country and all land borders are closed.
Israelis are now being vaccinated against COVID-19 faster than any other country. It’s likely that the vast majority will be vaccinated by the end of March. We expect tourists from selected countries will again be visiting Israel and Palestine from the early summer onwards.
The occasional random violence by Israelis, the IDF, and Palestinians, is inter-communal, and tourists are largely unaffected. Most of the recent violence has been by Israelis against Palestinians.
Safety for tourists in the West Bank and Israel depends on a number of factors. First it’s important to understand that street crime is very low, much lower than many other countries. However foreigners should generally take the same precautions that they would do in any other developing country where most of the people are very poor and oppressed by their government.
The potential for a tourist to encounter violence at this time is moderately low, certainly much lower than in most US cities for instance. However incidents do occur, rarely against tourists, and generally fall into the following categories:
It is important to emphasis that none of this violence is directed at tourists. The exception is in ultra-Orthodox Jewish neighbourhoods in Israel, especially Jerusalem, where immodestly dressed tourists are subject to harassment or violence by residents. Driving through an ultra-Orthodox neighbourhood on Shabbat, from sundown of Friday to sundown on Saturday, may result in stones being thrown at your car.
However most of the violence by Israelis is aimed at Palestinians in the West Bank, and violence by Palestinians is aimed at Israelis. You have a much greater risk walking about in Manhattan or Miami (where muggings are common) or Tel Aviv (where car fatalities against pedestrians are common) than you do in Bethlehem, Ramallah or Nablus.
The US government does not issue alerts for American cities but it does have extensive travel warnings for Israel, the West Bank and Gaza, which are always interesting to read, although not necessarily accurate or up-to-date. The British Government also issues detailed warnings.
Dress code
When you are in public please dress similarly to the host population. Be especially sensitive in conservative Muslim or Jewish areas, or when visiting religious sites. ‘Village clothes’ is the local euphemism. In general this means long trousers (pants in USA-speak) to the ankle or skirt below the knees, and shirt covering the shoulders and upper arms with a high neckline or collar. Showing the shoulders and the upper torso is considered rude, whether by men or women. No shorts by men or women. Local people will relate better to visitors who are dressed appropriately. Ladies should keep in mind that many Jewish settlers in the West Bank wear long skirts, so you may be better off wearing trousers in order not to be misidentified. On the other hand if visiting an Israeli settlement or religious Jewish neighbourhood a long skirt is better.
Generally women do not need to cover their head, except when visiting a mosque. Married women should cover their head when visiting an orthodox synagogue. However it’s a good idea to always have a light scarf handy. Perhaps you’ll find yourself unexpectedly in a social situation where most or all the women have their heads covered. Although it’s not expected or required, it will be viewed as a mark of respect if visiting ladies lightly cover their hair.
Street smarts
In general tourists should not walk around Palestinian cities by themselves at night, especially when there have been Israeli military incursions, except when escorted by a Palestinian guide or friend. Local Palestinians know what to do in case of an emergency and help keep you safe. There are exceptions. For instance Ramallah is quite cosmopolitan and has an active night life.
Palestinians are usually very friendly and visitors may sometimes be invited for coffee or even to visit a home during a chance encounter with a local resident. Use your common sense in these situations, as you would anywhere. If you have a ‘gut feeling’ that something is not correct about the invitation then politely refuse. However don’t pass up a chance for a genuine encounter with local culture.
Take the usual precautions with your valuables. Don’t leave cash, credit cards, passports, camera, laptop etc in an insecure hotel room. If there’s no place to lock them up then carry everything with you in a day-pack and money belt. Don’t leave your day-pack where you can’t see it. In a crowded market, carry your day-pack in front of you, not on your back. Don’t flash a large wad of cash in a public situation. Only have in your wallet what you need for the day. The rest of your cash should be in a money belt or locked up. In hostels or cheaper guest houses, do not leave valuables in the management’s safe.
Traveling in the West Bank
If you are taking a guided tour then you will be escorted by your guide. Make sure you have the guide’s mobile phone number and the phone number of the tour operator, just in case you are separated from the group for any reason. Palestinian guides are part of the community and provide a shelter from any potentially unsafe situation. For instance the Israeli military and Israeli settlers make incursions into Palestinian areas. Should this situation arise then the guide will know what to do. Follow their instructions. Tour operators in the West Bank keep close watch on the security situation and will cancel a tour if there is any risk. However in recent years it is extremely rare that a tour has been disrupted or canceled for security reasons.
You can take Palestinian buses and ‘servees’ (shared taxis) from Damascus gate in Jerusalem to most cities in the West Bank. It’s fine to take Palestinian transport if you want to venture off the beaten track. They are cheap and provide an opportunity to interact with locals. However you should have researched your destination, and if you are spending the night, you should have a reservation or be assured that there are rooms available in your hotel. Arriving in an unfamiliar town or city without knowing where you will spend the night is generally not a good idea.
If you habitually wear a kippa (yarmulke/skull cap), we recommend you wear a baseball cap or other hat in the West Bank to avoid any misunderstanding. For most Palestinians the only people they see wearing a kippa are settlers so they therefore don’t have a good connotation.
Overall your safety and risk in the West Bank is a matter of common sense. Be aware of the potential problems, as you would in any unfamiliar country. But don’t let concern about these issues hold you back from enjoying the culture and history of Palestinians, exploring Israel, and learning about the Occupation and possibilities for a real peace.
Ben Gurion Airport and the land border crossings
Note that Israel now issues paper arrival slips at all entry points, which you should keep safe. Your passport will not be physically stamped by Israel anywhere; including at the airport, all West Bank checkpoints, and the land crossings with Egypt or Jordan (you will however get Egyptian and Jordanian stamps here). See our blog articles with advice for arriving in and leaving Israel.
